Thursday, March 3, 2011

Road Trip To Seattle and back


Sat. Sept. 4: Leave Calgary 6:30am. Pick up my daughter Cheryl in Canmore. Drive all day to Surrey, BC. Camp at Peace Arch RV Park, clean, nice, lots of amenities for trailers, grassy area for tents: cost $40
Sunday: Cheryl leaves 7am.on her bicycle, little trailer behind, destination SanFrancisco.
I pack up camp, head for the border 1.5 hr. wait to cross. Turn off I5 onto Hwy.548 for a quieter drive thru small farm homesteads. In Bellingham I find my way to the historic district of Fairhaven. Restored brick buildings house a wonderful eclectic mix of boutiques and cafes, cyclists and baby strollers. I stroll the streets, stop for coffee. I wander into “A Lot of Flowers” and chat with the clerk. This little corner garden shop has been here for 35 years. I feel very in my element in this quaint town. I hate to leave. Stop at tourist info to pick up camping maps. Take hwy.11 to Larrabee State Park, wondering if Cheryl is here. Park full: no one at the gate. I tell myself not to worry about her on her solo tour. Onward
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I miss a turn and end up on Whitbey Island. I drive a winding road
Chuckanut Drive under a canopy of trees: amazing scenery of Samish Bay. Lots of inlets to pull over for Kodak moments. The sun is out and makes for a beautiful afternoon. I head to Deception Pass Provincial campground but it’s full. The gate attendant wants to send me to an overflow but with much prodding, I finally get him to tell me there is a small campground just back down the road at Rosario Beach. I head there (I had passed the poor signage twice) and find a wonderful cozy campground with views of the ocean.

There are about a dozen other campers here. I set up camp, cook some dinner, and then take a walk on the long pier to check out people crabbing. Dark settles in on quiet night.                            
Monday: I wake to a light mist; have some breakfast, break camp. Even though it is cold and raining hard I decide to park the car and walk over Deception Pass bridge. It is scary but an awe-inspiring view. No crowds today, just me. I walk to the other end and back: I’m frozen.
         
I continue my journey and turn into the quaint town of Coupeville. Historic homes, a waterfront town lined with unique shops, cafes and galleries. I love this place. It reminds me of Mahone Bay, NS. I step into “One More Thing” a great little boutique. The manager is very friendly. We chat and she tells me her story. She was visiting a friend here, fell in love with the place, bought a farm, went back home to San Francisco, sold her house,  packed up her life and moved here. I’m impressed and think maybe there is a message for me. She gladly takes a picture of me with the fisherman outside the door. I continue driving in the pouring rain. Next stop Langley: a charming seaside village. I grab a bite to eat, check out a few shops in the never ending rain. No point in putting up a tent. I head for the Mukilteo Ferry, wait 1 hr. and board at 2:30 (cost $8.75). Not very good planning on my part going into Seattle on the Monday after a long weekend. Now I am driving into Seattle on the the I5. It is pouring so hard the wipers can’t go fast enough. This freeway has 8 lanes of speeding cars and I am trying to keep focused on finding route 90. I think I’m gonna die! I drive east past the city centre looking for camping and finally stop for coffee and gas in Issaquah. Some friendly chaps in the coffee shop direct me to the Holiday Inn. I book a room ($120) and haul all my wet gear in to dry. There is a great market across the street. I shop for fresh food and relax in my room as it continues pouring. Nice hotel with outdoor pool.

Tuesday:  have a hearty breakfast downstairs and the helpful waitress gives me directions to Pike’s Market at the waterfront. I find a parking meter under the bridge ($5hr.max.stay 2 hr.) The market is an array of sights, sounds, smells: people, music, gorgeous flower bouquets, fresh seafood and fish so huge I’ve never seen anything like it. If only I could take it home! I spend 2 hours taking it all in, buying fresh bread, smoked salmon, salads, cheese, sampling tea and fruit. I ask someone to take my photo in front of the Giant Shoe Museum. I move the car to another spot then walk around Pioneer Square, taking the mini tour of the underground city. I chat with the gate keeper and he asks me if I have a gun traveling alone (how American). I browse in “Diva Dollz” an inviting vintage store, get a coffee and wander to the waterfront.
       
I decide to leave Seattle as the rain is going  to continue all week. No point in going up the tower: too much fog to see. I head east to find a campground but most of what I pass is for RV’s. I have to drive over an hour before I find Lake Easton State Park for tenters ($21). I have my choice of camp spots as there is only 1 other tent set up in the lower area. I chose a high spot with the water tap right in front. Thank goodness I have a tarp and it stops raining long enough for me to get it tied up. At least I can put up my tent.without getting soaked. I get my stove going and have my tailgate supper of fresh smoked salmon. It is so good I don’t even mind the rain. I set up my sleeping quarters: thick Mexican blanket, wooly quilt, air bed, -10 sleeping bag, plus 4 layers clothes. I’m toasty warm. The only bad thing is having to go out in the pouring rain at 2 am to use the washroom down the road.

 
Wednesday: Still raining. Eat. Pack up. Drive east thru forests to Kenatash Valley. Gas up at Ellensburg. Pretty flat and dismal in this town. Take 97N into Wenatchee National Forest. Stops raining and in Wenatchee I pick up supplies. Albertson’s for  wood (only $4). Have coffee at Great Harvest Bread Co. and buy a yummy fresh loaf of natural bread. Wow the sun was out for 1 hr. I drive up the Columbia river past Chelan Falls. There’s a nice looking campground but once again it is pouring so I keep going north. At Brewster I turn off to go to Bridgeport (shows a State Park on map). Closed. Keep going. It’s getting dark because it’s so cloudy. Turn off I97 for Conconully State Park. 20 minutes on gravel road makes me leery, no cars on road. I get there and it is a tiny dump. Turn back and drive to Tonasket. It is dark and there are no campgrounds. Stop for gas and a quick eat. The clerk tells me to be careful as the highest road kill is on this drive to the border. Great! I hate driving in the dark at the best of times. I head to Oroville. I turn into Lake Osoyoos campground and set up my tent by the light of my headlights. Thank God it is clear and not raining.  I wake up at 4am. for a biffy walk and my air bed is almost flat. At least the stars are out and it’s calm.

         

         Thursday: Up, eat, shower, break camp, walk to beach: the sun is out. I drive to town to check out the grocery store: no great deals. Buy a bottle at the duty free shop; cross border (I’m the only car). Drive up to Osoyoos: sure has grown in 2 years. RV’s everywhere and no spots in Provincial campground. The downtown has a nice walkway & park so I set up my coleman at a picnic table and make some quesadillas. People comment on my resourfulness: beats fast food. I drive to Canadian Tire in Penticton, buy a new airbed and head for Okanagan Lake campground, a pretty spot down by the water. It is hard to stake a tent as you cannot put it on the grass and I bend all my spikes ( I find a few heavy rocks to hold the ropes. But at least there is no more rain: lots of campers here. Finally I get to have a campfire.

Friday: Pack up and leave at 11. I check out the North Okanagan campground: larger spots: will stay here next time. Drive to Peachland taking the Lake road. I still love it here. Walk along the refurbished waterfront and relax at a new coffee shop. Onward to Kelowna. Stop at Quail’s Ridge Winery: gorgeous setting. I sightsee: this city is really growing. The sun is out and the drive thru Vernon is nice. I head east thru Naramata. Now it’s pushing 5:00 and no campground in site (should have stayed in Naramata). I’m heading for the ferry at Needles. Once across I head for Nakusp but the drive proves too long. I’m tired, it’s getting dark and threatening rain again. I pull onto a dirt road looking for Burton Prov. campground (I pray it’s not a dive). It proves to be a lovely spot on a lake: only 2 other campers. I set up my tent. The neighbor comes over and tells me not to drink the water. He goes and gets me 4 bottles of water: how nice. I fall asleep to the sound of loons. Wake at 2am for biffy run: a million stars in the sky. It is very dark, quiet, a bit eerie.

Saturday: Up early. Breakfast. Break camp. Walk around the lake. The 20 min. drive to Nakusp is beautiful as the sun pops in and out of rain clouds and there is mist shrouding the mountains. Large Osprey nests top the hydro poles. I pass 2 other Prov. campgrounds and log cabins for rent (keep that in mind). Stop in Nakusp. Buy fresh veggies at the street market. Spectacular serpentine drive to New Denver. I miss the turn off for Kaslo so head into Nelson tru Slocan Valley. There is a huge car show on the main street and after circling a few times, I cannot get a parking spot. So I head to Safeway for a coffee and leave town to check into the Kokanee Creek campground ($28). I drive around a few times to find a spot with trees to tie my tarp, but am unsuccessful. I settle for a no tarp nite. Set up camp, cook dinner, walk to the river to see the spawning salmon. Buy firewood $6.  
Sunday: Wake up 7am to drizzling rain. Tailgate breakfast. Pack up. It pours all the way to Kaslo. Even though fog sets in over the mountains, it’s a pretty drive. I walk the historic main street and check out the real estate ads in the window. Derrick comes to talk to me and I hear about his journey on motorcycle. He suggests I stop at Ainsley Hot Springs and check out Toad Rock campground for motorcyclists. So I do that. The springs feel great even in the rain. Catch the 1:00 Kootenay Lake ferry at Balfour (good timing as next one is 2:50). Dock at Crawford Bay. Still pouring & cold so I drive thu to Creston. This is another pretty drive along Kootenay Lake. At 5:00 I pull into Wasa Prov. Park camground ($21). The sun is out. There are other campers here. Set up camp, tarp and all just in case. After supper, I get to make a campfire, enjoy a hot chocolate and look at the stars. This is the warmest nite of my journey. It is very quiet and does not rain.

 Monday: Up at 7. Just enough propane to make coffee. I pack up, check out the beach, then hit the road. Stop in Invermere for coffee at the German Bakery Shop on the main street: delicious fresh cinnamon buns and more. Browse in Village Arts shop. 12:00 back on the road. Fog covers the mountain tops. Drive thru Radium and witness 20 km of forest devastation as I drive towards Lake Louise. It pours the entire way.
I drop off Cheryl’s stuff in Canmore and head home. No way I want to camp in this cold.

Summary: 9 days on the road, 1 hotel stay, 6 nites camping in the  rain 3500kmno car troubles (had check-up before leaving)
I love camping and was pretty comfy in my tent but rain everyday is not fun. Check weather before leaving on a trip.
Best food to cook when tailgating: quesadilas (cooked beef keeps in cooler for a few days) Add chopped tomatoes, peppers, shredded cheese, cilantro: fast, easy, yummy.
Buy big nails to anchor your tent as most camgrounds have gravel base:bends your pegs.
Put a heavy blanket or wool quilt under your air bed - keeps air in bed warmer.
I would go back to Whitbey Island and the San Juan Islands in summertime: it is really beautiful.
I felt pretty safe  wherever I went. Talk to people, ask questions; people are more accomodating to a single travellers.