August
20, 2012 – OREGON
COAST ADVENTURE
Left Calgary Sunday 8:30am to see the coast of Oregon. First stop Vernon
at Dutch’s Campground. Very hot, set up tent, cooled off at Kalamalka beach
a block away. The water was warm but very dirty from all
the boats on the lake. At that point I didn’t care: I
was so hot any water would have been a blessing. The small
campground backs onto a creek but also a main road which is
noisy at nite.
Lunch on the waterfront in Peachland, one of my favorite spots A couple of resident hikers shared my
picnic table after their morning climb. I headed for Okanagan Lake Provincial campgrounds north of Penticton, both nice
spots by the water. Full - the attendant said
without a reservation people line up at 7am for a spot.
Osoyoos. No luck at Haynes Prov. Park. The tourist
bureau suggested Nk’Mip RV Park: full.So I drove Lakeshore Drive; stopped at Osoyoos RV Campground & Waterslide:
got a spot 
on the hill with a view of the lake and
beach across the street. Tuesday: crossed border, stopped in Omak
for gas, Walmart
for ice and produce. Headed 20 west; stopped
at a lovely park under the shade of big old trees, for some
lunch. You can even
camp on the lawn here and its along the
river. Good to know. Winthrop: fabulous quaint western town. Camped at KOA just as you are entering town. Clean landscaped grounds, small pool, store, accommodating owners. Or rent a cute log cabin $60 complete with porch swing. My daughter told me to avoid the State Park but I checked it out: yuk! I walked the town in the evening: most stores are closed so do that in the afternoon.
Ice cream & candy store were great.
Next morning I drove west thru the Cascades. Spectacular views, turquoise lakes, stunning mountain vistas at Diablo.
You want to stop at every scenic point it is gorgeous.
Next morning I drove west thru the Cascades. Spectacular views, turquoise lakes, stunning mountain vistas at Diablo.
You want to stop at every scenic point it is gorgeous.
Continued west to Burlington and onto Whidbey Island. Stopped at the new coffee shop at Deception Pass: very comfy with couches, fireplace, good coffee & muffins. Camped at Fort Ebey campground (on the ocean side) outside Coupeville. Got 1 of 3 sites left. In the evening I went to town on the waterfront but the stores were closed: painted heritage buildings, Victorian homes with wrap around porches. It is so qauint - I love this place.
In the morning I headed for the ferry: missed the 8:45 by 5 minutes, the 9:30 was cancelled (this happens frequently due to tides) 1.5 hr later
I crossed the water to Port Townsend. Heading
south on Bainbridge
Island, I realized I made a wrong veer; stop at a
real estate office for help. A sweetlady helped me out with precision
instructions telling me what exit to take at Tacoma
for gas because" there are bad neighborhoods." Glad she did.
South thru Chehalis, west thru Raymond, all
the way to Cape
Disappointment Lewis & Clark State Park. Got
one of the last sites. Walked Long
Beach: miles of sand & driftwood. Windy, cold,
but still so beautiful.
Hint: bring a paper bag to discreetly
collect kindling for your campfire.
Up early: head to Astoria, crossing the (floating) Hood Canal
Bridge over the
Columbia River. Have lunch as I wait for the bridge to open and let a steamer thru. I am now driving the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway: a
breathtaking journey with miles of sandy beaches, crashing waves,
towering forests, spectacular scenery.
Seaside: Oregon’s first seashore resort: stop in town to walk the long boardwalk
Cannon Beach: classic beach town character. Meandering pathways spilling over with flowers; charming
eateries, inspiration around every corner. I head to the ocean with coffee
& fresh pastry from the bakery. Miles of soft sandy beach, I sit in the
sand, people watch and reconnect with the sea. Seabirds circle Haystack Rock
which rises 235 ft above the shoreline. Naturalists are stationed there
every morning to educate visitors about the abundant sea life at low tide. Grey cedar beach house with white picket fences line the sand dunes, wind
blown gangly trees surround the yards. Just like you see in those home &
garden magazines! I love this town and could easily live here.
Ecola State Park: Outstanding postcard perfect views of jagged cliffs and rolling surf. ($5 entrance fee - worth it) Favorite photo stop. Spend a few hrs. at the beach with a picnic.
Pacific City: Camp at Thousand Trails (pricey $42 cheaper if you’re a member) At the beach vehicles park right on the sand. Sand dunes line the north side and every one climbs up (not easy as you sink into fine sand); children slide or roll down. Surfers skim the waves, people play volleyball, picnickers, a popular spot.
Driving thru towns, thick clouds of mist hang over the ocean. The sun hides in and out of the clouds. Huge cedar and pine trees line the highway, abundant sea views.
Neahkanie Lookout: Stop and take pictures Dramatic cliffside views with fog hugging the coastline.
Tillamook: Cheese factory tour – a must to do.
Newport: Good town to buy supplies at the new grocery store.
Florence: Quaint village on the banks of the Suislaw River. Walked the old town. Stopped for tea and home made goodies at the bakery.
This was as far south as I went. I could not get into any of the State campgrounds as they were all booked. It was so crowded on the coast Sat. I could not even get a hotel room anywhere so slept in my car at Rockaway Beach. A ranger knocked
on my window at 1am to see if I was ok and wished me luck
finding a place Sun. It was a pretty good sleep. At 7am I went to the washroom and a little old lady was sweeping and asked me if I wanted a cup of coffee - how sweet. She is the keeper and lives in her trailer on site.
Headed north: stopped at Wheeler cafe for breakfast. They were pretty much out of everything because it was so crowded on the weekend.
Headed north: stopped at Wheeler cafe for breakfast. They were pretty much out of everything because it was so crowded on the weekend.
Do not go to the Oregon coast without a reservation for camping or a hotel. You cannot even reserve in person – only via internet at least 3 days ahead. Even when I did go online the only spots available were walk-in. Very frustrating. There were many people like me trying to get camping.
Spent Sun. nite in a cabin at Heritage Resort in Cannon beach. On Mon. I got a site at Wrights Camping, a small more intimate campground with plenty of campfire wood. Walked the beach early in the morning when the tide was out…hated to leave.
Drove to Portland – stopped for gas & maps at the tourist bureau which is downtown so I had to get off the freeway - scary! You really have to watch for signs as it is very confusing
Headed east to the magnificent Columbia River Gorge. Got off the freeway and took the scenic drive- way nicer and leisurely.
Troutdale: 4 blocks of antique shops, galleries, Tad’s Chicken’n Dumplings
Multnomah Falls: Majestic 2 tiered falls
– most popular natural attraction. Stopped to check it out - hard to get a parking spot - but it is a natural beauty.
I stopped at few other lookouts and talked to a visitor guide. There was only 1 State Park along the way to Hood River and it was isolated - no one was there. It had nice spots but the highway traffic would keep you awake. So I kept on going.
Hood River: Beautiful Gorge panoramas; white-capped Mount Hood south of town.
I stop at a coffee shop on Oak St. and the owner tells me where there is a quiet campground (Tucker Park) on a rushing river. He draws a map for me. I am very thankful; would not have found it without him. Big trees, lots of open spots. $18. The next day I spend the afternoon on the waterfront watching the kite boarders & windsurfers skim across the choppy Columbia river performing acrobats. Back at my camp site, I hang my hammock and relax with a cool drink. After dinner, I gather wood for a campfire, chat with visitors from Vancouver. Very windy during the day (for the surfers) but the evening is calm and warm.
Next day, I walk the historic town, have a coffee & sweet at Bread Bakery (everything hand made on site). On my way back to the campground I visit a wonderful lavender farm and stop at Apple Valley Country Store for marionberry jam and a slice of huckelberry pie (samples here). Great campfire and starlit night.
My journey continues east. I take the
scenic route stopping at Memaloose
and Rowena
Crest overlooks: spectacular views. I follow The Gorge
eastward: the trees are replaced with amazing chiseled
cliffs and jagged peaks. The landscape turns into sand cliffs as I near the end of The Gorge. Lots of wind turbines here.
I take I90 northward and I am in farm country: rolling golden hills for miles on end with the occasional homestead: 3 hrs of hot dry driving. I am thankful for the treed reststop as I head to Spokane. I would hate to have car troubles on this stretch. I reach Spokane at 4:30 and head for the tourist bureau downtown. It is hot and rush hour but I manage to find it. No camping nearby so I continue to Coeur D’Alene. I am so tired and see no signs for camping so stop at a hotel: no vacancy. Furthur down the hwy. I check into AmeriTel at $160. At this point I don’t care but it did include breakfast, pool and jaccuzzi (fabulous).
At 9am,
I head to the tourist bureau on the waterfront and a wonderful lady named Joy phones around and tries valiantly
to get me camping. She says if she didn’t live in a condo she would let me
stay in her yard. I walk the docks: it is gorgeous with misted mountains surrounding
beach. I return to Joy but she has no luck. I leave and head for Farrugut State
Park, even though it is fully booked (210 sites). When I get there I talk to the
ladies and they phone around: no luck. One girl comes out & offers her backyard to
me if I can’t find anything: says she’ll be there till 7:00. Another kind person! I drive thru the huge park to
see the lake and check out the tent sites: very nice.
Onward to Round Lake State Park: nothing available; they are
not friendly at all.
Sandpoint: Stop at Springy Pt. Recreation Centre but of course it is full. Cross the 2 mile long bridge into Sandpoint located on magnificent 43mile long Lake Pend Oreille, surrounded by the Selkirk and Cabinet mountains. I find a tourist bureau and she directs me to the small campground at the fairgrounds on the edge of town. Again a place I would not have found. The hosts are very friendly and offer me the picnic shelter site (usually for motorcycles).
I set up my tent under a big old tree and
stay there for 3 days ($25 day). She tells me where her secret watering hole is
(1 block away) and I cool off before making dinner. Anything I need just ask. Also
they have the cleanest showers and washrooms.
The next day I head to City Beach
(in the heart of town) to lay in the sun and take in the arts festival in the
park. Finally I can vegetate surrounded by beautiful scenery and music.
Priest Lake: Beautiful drive west and north from Sandpoint: a scenic drive into the heart of the Selkirk Mountains. This 19 mile long lake is renowned for its trophy size trout. I booked 3 nites online at Indian Creek State Park but when I get there, check in and see
my site, I decide 1 nite will be enough as
Back in Sandpoint, I stop at the grocery store
to stock up on items to take home. It’s a lovely quiet drive as I head to the border.
Stopped at 2 quiet wonderful little campgrounds before crossing the border:
Robinson
Lake Campground: 10 sites, lake, creek, nice spots.
Copper
Creek Campground: 15 sites with a host. A little
gem with crystal clear water, you can walk across the rocky creek it’s so shallow,
tall pines, quiet.
I have lunch on the creek banks.
I have lunch on the creek banks.
I drove up to Cranbrook, thru to
Windermere. It got cooler & cloudier. I stopped at Windermere Resort Campground. After paying $32 the owner told me there was no drinking water I
had to buy a jug. And you had to walk to a mobile unit for washing & shower
(a hose for washing dishes).
The wind was gale force and impossible to put up my
tent. As the she sky got blacker I decided to leave and asked for my $ back. She
said no but I stood my ground and got most
of it back. This place is for fishermen in rvs not tenters. I drove thru Radium & the Kootenays thru heavy rain: stopping at rest stops to put more clothes on as it got colder. I just kept on going all the way home to Calgary. Too nasty to stop & camp anywhere.
The wind was gale force and impossible to put up my
tent. As the she sky got blacker I decided to leave and asked for my $ back. She
said no but I stood my ground and got most of it back. This place is for fishermen in rvs not tenters. I drove thru Radium & the Kootenays thru heavy rain: stopping at rest stops to put more clothes on as it got colder. I just kept on going all the way home to Calgary. Too nasty to stop & camp anywhere.
